Advent Calendar 2020 Day 12: Charles Dickens and the birth of the classic English Christmas dinner

középfok
Tudtátok, hogy a tradicionális angol karácsonyi vacsorát Charles Dickens A karácsonyi ének című klasszikusa tette népszerűvé? A leckében azt is elolvashatjátok, hogy az idők során mikor mit ettek az emberek karácsonykor. A videó pedig Dickens A Christmas Caroljának összefoglalása pár percben.

Charles Dickens popularised the traditional, English Christmas in 1843 in his novel A Christmas Carol when Bob Cratchit and his family sit down on Christmas Day to eat a dinner of goose with mashed potatoes and apple sauce accompanied by sage and onion stuffing and followed by Christmas pudding.

It’s a vision that is watched – unseen by the Cratchits – by a fast-repenting Ebenezer Scrooge and the Ghost of Christmas Present who is showing the miser the error of his ways.

Duly chastened by his supernatural experience, the newly festive Scrooge sends over, on Christmas morning, a turkey that is “twice the size of Tiny Tim” – and will certainly feed more people than the goose. This set the seal for the popular English Christmas meal. But what did people eat at Christmas time before goose and turkey?

A time of gifts

In the anonymous late 14th-century poem Gawain and the Green Knight, Gawain is served “many delicacies” on Christmas Day in the castle of Sir Bertilak, but no meat in the meal he eats on Christmas Eve, which was a time for fasting.

During the medieval period, it was traditional in wealthier households for a boar’s head to take pride of place at the centre of the festive table – a tradition alluded to when Sir Bertilak presents Gawain with the head and flesh of the boar he has killed. A 15th-century carol, The Boar’s Head, celebrates the dish like this:

Chief service in all this land

Wheresoever it may be found,

Served up with mustard.

Of course the poor would have eaten what they could get, including scraps from their master’s table if they had access to them.

Good bread and good drink

For the Elizabethans, no specific food was special during Christmas time. In Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry (1573), Thomas Tusser recommended: “Good bread and good drink”. Meat was the dominant foodstuff:

Beef, mutton, and pork, and good pies of the best

Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well dressed.

Potatoes – a product of the New World, like the turkey – were not a regular feature of feasts until the middle of the 17th century. Even then they remained expensive – which is why bread and pies dominate in descriptions of Christmas foodstuffs before Dickens. Vegetables are rare in descriptions of early feasts and do not feature in the Cratchit Christmas dinner. The Brussels sprout – a member of the cabbage family, specially developed by 16th-century Belgian farmers – may have become a staple of the modern Christmas dinner in part due to fashion and an increasing awareness of nutrition, and the fact that cabbage had a reputation since ancient times of preventing drunkenness.

Robert Herrick’s Ceremonies for Christmas (1648) urges “merry, merry boys” to bring in the Christmas log and to consume strong beer and white bread “while the meat is a-shredding / For the rare mince-pie”. The yule log would have been lit on Christmas Eve; the modern confection of sponge and chocolate is a nod towards this old tradition. On the contrary, mince pies used to be savoury – in Hannah Woolley’s popular cookbook of the time, The Queen-Like Closet (1670), there is a recipe for “good minced pies” containing veal. Puddings too were often savoury, similar to haggis – although it is the sweet plum pudding that would become the traditional Christmas pud.

Twelfth night

Yet for the Elizabethans, and subsequent generations too, Twelfth Night (January 6) rather than Christmas Day was the main focus of revelry during the Christmas season. In Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night (first performed around 1602) Sir Toby Belch evokes the historical figure of the Lord of Misrule. When Sir Toby mocks Malvolio’s puritanism with “Dost thou think because thou art virtuous there shall be no more cakes and ale?” he anticipates the banning of such food during the English Commonwealth of 1649 to 1660.

Herrick’s poem Twelfth Night, or King and Queen (1648) describes the Twelfth Night Cake – a spiced fruit cake containing a bean and a pea that represents the king and queen with the recipients of each being crowned king and queen for the night. Herrick’s “bowl full of gentle lamb’s wool” (hot ale, roasted apple pulp, and spices) is used to wassail (toast) the pretend king and queen.

Samuel Pepys makes several references to Twelfth Night Cake in his diary, including an entry for January 6 1668 where he describes “an excellent cake” that cost him nearly 20 shillings – about one day’s salary from his job as Clerk of the Acts at the Navy Board.

Twelfth Night remained the focus of festivities during the Regency period and Jane Austen would have been familiar with the eponymous cake. She also mentions Christmas in her novels but does not specify the Christmas Day meal. In Emma, there is a Christmas Eve dinner at Randalls, the home of the Westons, where saddle of mutton is served, and in Persuasion, a visit to the Musgroves during the Christmas holidays reveals tables “bending under the weight of brawn and cold pies”. Brawn here indicates a dish of meat from the head of a pig set in its own jelly and so harks back to the boar’s head from medieval times.

The closest most of us get to Boar’s Head these days is likely to be a pub whose name commemorates it. So we can largely thank Charles Dickens, who was himself very fond of turkey, for the tradition of the Christmas dinner turkey – a gift from the newly reformed Scrooge, which now forms the centrepiece of most Christmas tables.

source: theconversation.com

What did people eat for Christmas or Twelfth Night in different periods of history in Britain? Can you find the information in the text?

Charles Dickens’ time
14th century
Medieval times
Elizabethan period
17th century
Jane Austen’s time

 

 

Key

Charles Dickens’ time
goose, turkey, mashed potatoes, apple sauce, sage and onion stuffing, Christmas pudding
14th century
many delicacies, but no meat, Christmas was a time for fasting
Medieval times
boar’s head served up with mustard, scraps from their master’s table for the poor
Elizabethan period
no specific food but good bread and good drink, meat was the dominant foodstuff: beef, mutton, pork, good pies, pig, veal, goose, capon, turkey
17th century
potatoes become part of the meal, bread and pies, Brussels sprouts, strong beer, white bread, mince pie, plum pudding, Twelfth Night cake, hot ale, roasted apple pulp, and spices
Jane Austen’s time
saddle of mutton, brawn, cold pies

Megosztás
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Vocabulary

to popularise népszerűsíteni
goose liba
mashed potatoes krumplipüré
sage zsálya
stuffing töltelék
repenting megjavuló, megtérő
miser zsugori
duly illően
chastened megfélemlítve, leszelídítve
festive ünnepi hangulatba került
turkey pulyka
to set the seal for sg megpecsételni valamit
anonymous névtelen
fasting böjtölés
boar’s head vaddisznófej
to allude to sg utalni valamire
scrap lehulló falat, maradék
to have access to sg hozzáférni valamihez
beef marhahús
mutton birkahús
pork sertéshús
veal borjúhús
capon kappan
feast lakoma
Brussels sprout kelbimbó
staple alapétel
awareness tudatosság
nutrition étkezés
reputation hírnév
to prevent megelőzni
drunkenness részegség
yule log karácsonyi rönk
sponge piskóta
a nod towards sg főhajtás
savoury sós (nem édes)
haggis vagdalt belsőségekkel, zabliszttel töltött borjú-, juhgyomor
plum szilva
subsequent következő, elkövetkező
revelry mulatozás, vidámság
to evoke felidézni
ale sör
to ban betiltani
spiced fűszeres
bean bab
pea borsó
recipient aki megkapja
to wassail tósztot mondani
pretend king a király szerepében tetszelgő
to remain maradni
festivity ünneplés
brawn disznósajt
jelly kocsonya, zselé
to hark back visszatérni, visszautalni
to commemorate sg emléket állítani valaminek
centrepiece asztaldísz

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